Happy New Year 2026 Year of the Horse (but on a bike)

A quiet beginning to the year

For our first shrine visit of the year, we didn’t take the car.
And we didn’t arrive on horseback either — despite being in very Kumano territory.

We went by bicycle.

There’s something about starting the year under your own steam that feels right. No rushing, no fanfare, no ticking things off a list. Just pedalling, stopping when you feel like it, taking the long way because… why not.

We crossed to a small island in Wakayama, following the rocky path and enjoying the winter sun. No crowds, no loud wishes shouted into the universe — just a small shrine tucked among the trees, thousands of years of history.

Hatsumōde doesn’t need to be dramatic.

The family was together for the New Year, kind of ... but each went to the shrine at different times. I was late to go but I went and now the year feels underway properly. Sometimes it’s enough to arrive quietly, offer a moment of gratitude, and begin the year the same way you hope to continue it — calmly, deliberately, without unnecessary pressure.

We stayed at the shrine only a short time. The island is a bird sanctuary. We walked back to our bikes slowly, trying to catch glimpses of the birds that were singing above the tree canopy. We saw a White Eye (mejiro) but we couldn't say if this was what we were hearing. 

Winter lets you go at your own pace when it's not too cold. The unseasonably warm weather felt like a gift.

What a beautiful connected start to the year.

• Location: Esuzaki is a small, uninhabited island connected to the mainland of Susami in Wakayama by a bridge, allowing easy access. We rented bicycles from the nearby 'Michi no Eki' but please note this is a culturally protected and historically important location so it's forbidden to ride bikes beyond the main gate (picture 1). It's a gentle walk up the meandering path to the shrine or you can chance the steep staircase on the right as you pass through the gate. 
• Shrine Features: The island is known for its dense, subtropical jungle-like forest and houses a shrine dedicated to local deities. It's also a bird sanctuary so it's quiet but for the birdsong. 
• Scenery: It is characterized by rough, volcanic-looking rock formations along its coast and a quiet, mysterious atmosphere.